Are seed oils the enemy?
There’s a lot of talk (and therefore a lot of confusion) around the topic of seed oils today. I’m sure we can all agree that canola oil and generic “vegetable oil” are doing a lot more damage than good. But we have a hard time accepting that all seed oils are bad.
A good rule of thumb: there’s a time and place for everything. Even canola oil has a time and place. And it was during World War II primarily as an engine lubricant.
So, is it possible then that there is a time and place for other seed oils in our lives? Well, in order to determine that, we’d need to look at the strengths and weaknesses of the ingredients and use them accordingly.
Strengths and weaknesses of seed oils
In our article, Stable vs. Volatile Fats, we talk a lot about what makes a fat stable or not. The major weakness of seed oils (polyunsaturated fats) is that they are quite volatile under heat and UV radiation. This means that they breakdown easily.
In the breakdown process, they create free radicals that create oxidative stress in the body and ultimately, inflammation.
However, a lot of seed oils can also come with many benefits that are actually great for our skin. Here’s a couple of them:
Antioxidants
Many cold-pressed seed oils carry antioxidants that help to counter-act some of that oxidative stress. This like Vitamin E (a master antioxidant), polyphenols, tocopherols, carotenoids, and lycopene are all powerful antioxidants.
This part is super important — when these antioxidants are exposed to heat or sunlight, they can degrade quickly, stripping the oil of its protective properties. This is why we recommend using these oils on your skin overnight, rather than during the day.
Fatty Acids
Seed oils also contain different fatty acids that have a range of benefits to our skin. Here’s a list of just a couple to give you an idea:
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Linoelic acid. Reduces inflammation and can restore your skin barrier
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Oleic acid. Softens and moisturizes
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Punicic acid. Anti-inflammatory
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Alpha Linoelic acid. Promotes elasticity
What to look for:
So, now that we know we don’t need to write all seed oils off forever (because that was a little dramatic), here are some things to keep an eye out for when you are purchasing these oils
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Cold-pressed. As we now know, seed oils are not stable under heat stress. Buying cold-pressed with ensure that your oils didn’t oxidize in the extraction process.
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Amber glass bottle / opaque bottle. This will help to protect your oils from light damage during storage.
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Virgin + organic. Virgin make sure that you the first-run of the oil, ensuring the highest quality. Organic because, well…organic.
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Balancing with high antioxidant ingredients. If using a lot of seed oils on your skin, combine it with other high antioxidants to help offset any possible oxidative damage.
Moral of the story
We are right to be wary of the rampant use of seed oils in our food and skincare products. But, it turns out that seed oils are not all bad. Just like everything else, they have their time and place.
Do your research and be intentional when and where you use them, along with where you are sourcing from.
For daytime moisture we recommend our Hera Face & Body Tallow Balm. For night time moisture, we recommend our Antioxidant Rich Artemis Night Serum.